M2HB.NET

[AaronHorrocks]

They soak 'em in some solution that keeps the oxygen out.

I wonder if you can use that neutralizing oil for parkerizing?
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[Ouchman]

I think it's just water. Might be distilled, ionized or a slowly decreasing saline, I don't know for sure. I do know they try to get stuff in the tanks ASAP. I know some cannon have been sitting in tanks for over a decade. I would consult an "expert" on salvage before I attempted to shoot it. The steel parts might be OK, I'd be more worried about the cast Armasteel parts. The rivets look just nasty and you won't know if the holes are rotten untill they are removed.I'm sure somebody at Natn'l Geograghic could point you toward the right expert as they have covered many salvage stories.
HTH
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[Yohan]

Or the Smithonian Museum?

[WarCloud]

Oxydation. Recovered salt water steel has to be kept immersed until the restoration or preservation can be undertaken in quick order, otherwise the exposure to air will quickly rust the piece, and being compromised so badly by long term immersion, the rust will be deep and compromise the material strength of the piece. Wouldn't even consider this gun for a live piece, too dangerous.

[HICKS439]

I agree I,m going to go with my original plans and just keep it as a dewat. The metal while good enough for my needs it does have a wierd tone to it when you give it a rap. Kind of a strange thump like when you hit wood. I,m sure if I tried to put a round through this I'd be wearing it. I'm going to try get more history of the gun by the seller.

Oh I only paid 1200 for it shipped.

[HICKS439]

I figured out that I needed the trigger release mechanism and spring. I know what goes where but was wondering if anyone knew how to compress the spring so as to get it seated on the rod? There is a tool if you can find it but was wondering if any of you had any home made ways to compress and seated the spring and mechanism?

Thanks again

[Ouchman]

Ok . There is a special tool that slides down the side plates instead of the back plate. it has a long screw with a "tee" handle that protrudes out the back.
The principle is , once its installed by sliding into position( there's a stop pin that rests on the top plate to locate the pusher end of the screw on the latch) you crank it in to compress the spring from hell. Then you remove the cotter pin and round nut with the slot in it.(Yes there's also a special wrench for it too. But you don't really need it.) Then you replace that nut about 2 turns and release the tension on the spring untill the latch drops down, retention the spring, remove nut, release tension on spring and remove the tool.
Because the tool is rather hard to find might I suggest you take a large flat blade screw driver and grind a notch in the blade to accommodate the latch and use it to push like crazy on the latch? A helper and a vice to hold the gun is a big plus.
Most folks here with semi's don't use the parts because of the difficulties installing the trigger and the latch assy. all at once. Also because of the current designs of the semi triggers it renders the tool useless.
I got my latch tool from someone who couldn't use it on a semi.
The fact is IT CAN BE USED ON A SEMI.
There is a very slight mod to the semi trigger bar that I have discussed in the "MYSTERY HOLE" thread. And yes it works fine. It takes me about a minute to install a semi trigger and the latch group, with no help or a vice.
Federal stock numbers for the tools are:4933-718-5892 , Tool assy, bolt latch spring: assembling-disassembling. 7185892
and
4933-718-8742 wrench spanner: face type ,t-handle, 9/32 id,8-3/4 lg,2 prongs 180 deg apart. 7188742
HTH
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The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese.
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